Remove the raw water intake hose from the seacock (this is sometimes difficult, as hose clamps and hoses may be mechanically frozen in place) and insert the end into the antifreeze in the bucket.If the boat is in the water, close the intake seacock.You can use any leftovers in the boat’s plumbing systems. Have additional antifreeze handy if you know your boat takes more than that or if you’ve never winterized before. Fill a five-gallon bucket with undiluted non-toxic antifreeze.To circulate antifreeze through the engine: If your engine takes a lot of antifreeze, you might also need a helper to add antifreeze to the bucket as needed. To winterize the engine with antifreeze, you’ll need a five-gallon bucket, and enough antifreeze for your engine and related plumbing (at least two gallons). This is better for the engine and less likely to result in freeze damage. The other choice, which we prefer, is to fill the cooling system with antifreeze. This diesel generator gets the same treatment as the main propulsion engine. Don’t forget also to drain the sea strainer, seacock body, and water lift muffler, if installed. Remove the petcock and free the opening with a tool or coat hanger. If water fails to drain freely from a petcock, it may be clogged with rust or debris. To drain, check the owner’s manual for the location of all petcocks and open them. Draining an engine must be thorough, as small pockets of water can crack important engine parts. Your first alternative is to drain the entire system, being careful to not leave standing water in any low spots. Raw water cooling system: There are two acceptable choices. If you’re using an antifreeze that needs to be diluted, like our West Marine Antifreeze & Coolant, you should carefully follow the instructions for dilution and do this first, before adding it to your freshwater cooling system. While the antifreeze will not wear out, the additives do. This is an important task to perform now, because the antifreeze contains additives to fight corrosion. Then crank the engine over a few times (without starting it) to coat the cylinder walls with oil.įreshwater-cooled engines with a heat exchanger: Replace the coolant in the freshwater side of the system. This helps drain all the contaminants and gunk away with the oil. Be sure to first run the engine up to operating temperature and change the oil while it’s warm. Change the oil in the transmission too, for similar reasons. Clean oil is a must for the health of your engine. Why do this now, instead of waiting until spring? Because the old, dirty oil contains contaminants and acids that will harm the engine during the lay-up. Run your engine to distribute the stabilizing additives throughout the fuel system.Ĭhange the engine’s oil and replace the oil filter. We sell lots of other excellent products like ValvTect BioGuard and STA-BIL Diesel. I use Biobor JF and Star Tron Diesel Additive, as recommended by Practical Sailor. Fill your tank 95% full with clean diesel and add a fuel stabilizer. Your diesel marine generator also needs to be winterized, and most of the steps are the same ones you need to take to winterize your boat’s diesel propulsion engine.Ĭheck your fuel-water separator for sediment and water, and clean or replace the elements as needed. Your engine will be ready for spring commissioning with a minimum of hassle. You will have inspected key components, covered all openings, left big reminder notes and listed all required repairs. When you’re done, your engine will have clean oil, stabilized fuel and a cooling system that’s either completely drained or filled with antifreeze. Winterizing your diesel engine(s) is a step-by-step process.
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